Last updated: October 2026
For a shower seal, record glass thickness, the relevant gap and the required length separately. A profile for 8 mm glass is not necessarily made to bridge an 8 mm gap.
Last updated: October 2026
To replace a shower door seal, identify which seal it is, measure the glass thickness and gap, pull the old seal off, clean the edge, push the new seal on, trim it to length and test with water. Most clip-on seals take about 15 minutes and need only a tape measure, calipers and a fine-tooth saw or sharp cutter.
Replace a seal when it shows one of these signs, not just because of its age:
Note where it sits (bottom, hinge side, closing edge, between two panels) and how it’s fixed (clip-on, slid into a channel, self-adhesive). Photograph the end of the old seal next to a ruler; the cross-section is the best way to match it.
Measure the glass thickness at the edge and the gap the seal closes at both ends and the middle. For magnetic and glass-to-glass seals, note the angle (90°, 135° or 180°). Order by both thickness and gap; see the size chart.
Pull clip-on seals straight off the glass edge, working from one end. Slide channel seals out sideways. For adhesive seals, peel slowly and remove adhesive residue with a plastic scraper.
Remove soap film, limescale and old adhesive, then let the glass dry. A clean edge lets the new seal grip evenly.
Push the new seal on loosely. Check that drip rails face into the shower and magnetic halves meet squarely when the door closes. Mark the length, remove the seal, and cut it square with a fine-tooth saw. Magnetic seals often contain a metal strip, so cut those with a hacksaw.
Push the seal fully home along its length. Close the door, run the shower at the seal for a minute, and check the outside, especially the bottom corners.
Universal seals fit a range of doors but rarely seal as well as one matched to your glass thickness and gap.
Usually the glass thickness is different from what was assumed, or the seal closes a different gap. Measure both again with calipers.
A seal manufacturer can match it from a photo of the cross-section next to a ruler. GoldRays matches from more than 3,200 moulds; send a photo.
GoldRays technical team
The GoldRays technical team writes these guides at the GoldRays factory in Foshan, China, where clear PVC and polycarbonate shower door seals have been made since 2001. The team works with more than 40 production lines and more than 3,200 moulds for 4 to 15 mm glass, and answers trade questions about fit, materials and testing.
Last updated: October 2026
Replace a shower-door seal when damage or loss of function has been confirmed against the fit and enclosure condition. Age or yellowing alone does not establish failure.
Last updated: October 2026
Shower door seals go by many names: sweep, wipe, drip rail, lip seal, bubble seal, h-jamb, magnetic seal, glass-to-glass connector. This glossary explains each one so you can name the part you need. The name alone is never enough to order, though: add where the seal sits, the glass thickness and the gap, because different suppliers use the same word for different parts.
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Bubble (bulb) seal | A seal with a hollow, round section that squashes to close a gap; copes with uneven gaps |
| Closing edge | The edge of the door that meets a panel or wall when shut |
| Cross-section (profile) | The end-on shape of a seal; the most reliable way to identify it |
| Drip rail (deflector) | An angled section on the inside face of the door’s lower edge that turns runoff back into the shower |
| Fin (lip) | The thin flexible part of a seal that touches the opposite surface |
| Gasket / glazing seal | A seal between glass and a frame or other component |
| Glass-to-glass connector | A seal joining two glass panels, at 90°, 135° or 180° |
| H-jamb | A wall or jamb profile with an H-shaped section; the glass sits in one side |
| Hinge-side seal | A seal on the edge next to the hinge or pivot |
| Magnetic seal | A pair of strips with magnets that pull the door closed; sold and replaced as a pair |
| Push-on channel | The U-shaped part of a seal that grips the glass |
| Rail insert | A seal pushed into a channel in an aluminium frame, not onto glass |
| Sealant (silicone) | A paste that cures in fixed joints; not a removable seal |
| Sweep | A fin along the bottom of a moving door that brushes the floor or tray |
| Threshold (dam) strip | A strip fixed to the floor or tray under the door |
| Wipe | Another name for a sweep or side seal: a sealing part, not a cleaning cloth |
Nicknames vary by country and by supplier. “Wipe” in one catalogue is “sweep” in another, and a “U seal” or “H seal” describes only the rough shape. Position is what tells a supplier what you need:
Similar names do not make parts interchangeable. DreamLine’s glossary distinguishes several of these functions, but one brand’s name doesn’t establish another’s equivalent.
A gasket here seals an enclosure joint. It is not a tap washer or O-ring. Never use a door-seal offcut in a hose or valve connection; match plumbing parts to the fixture maker’s drawing.
A piece is one length. A pair is two mating parts, as with magnetic seals; Bohle lists BO5213515 as one pair. A set depends on what the seller includes. Check the length of each piece and what is in the pack before comparing prices.
A close-up on its own hides how the seal is installed. Add one sentence on how the door moves and the measurements above, for example: “Bottom seal for an outward-opening door; 8 mm glass, 6 mm gap, 900 mm long.” Our measuring guide shows how.
Trade buyers: send photos or an old sample and GoldRays will identify and match the profile. Contact us.
A sealing strip, usually a flexible fin along the bottom or side of the door. It is not a cleaning cloth.
No. A sweep closes the gap under the door; a drip rail turns water running down the glass back inside. Many bottom seals combine both.
A wall profile with an H-shaped cross-section. One side fits over the glass, and the other side faces the wall or holds a seal.
GoldRays technical team
The GoldRays technical team writes these guides at the GoldRays factory in Foshan, China, where clear PVC and polycarbonate shower door seals have been made since 2001. The team works with more than 40 production lines and more than 3,200 moulds for 4 to 15 mm glass, and answers trade questions about fit, materials and testing.
Questions, quotes or samples — email us at goldrays@showerdoorseal.org.
If you are asking about a quote or a sample, it helps to mention the application, glass thickness, length and quantity, and your market — and to attach a drawing or photo if you have one. Not required, just faster.
2409, Building 2, Zhongqu, Chengshi Garden, Linnandadaobei, Foshan 528000, China
GoldRays is a China-based manufacturer and B2B supplier of shower door seals, including custom shower-seal development. We supply shower seals and related gaskets to shower-door and glass-hardware businesses worldwide.
ADDRESS
2409, Building 2, Zhongqu, Chengshi Garden, Linnandadaobei, Foshan 528000, ChinaCONTACT PERSON: Raymond
EMAIL: goldrays@showerdoorseal.org
PHONE NO. +86 757 8383 9170