To sell shower door seals online under your own brand, source them from a manufacturer that makes its own profiles and can give you exact specs for each listing. Start with a few profiles that cover the most common glass thicknesses (6, 8 and 10 mm, or 1/4″, 5/16″ and 3/8″), test samples on real doors, and write listings that state glass thickness, gap and position up front. In this category, many returns typically come from buyers who ordered the wrong size.

Which seals sell online

Replacement buyers search by problem and by glass thickness. The profiles that cover the most doors are:

Profile	Why it sells	Sizes to stock first
Bottom sweep with drip rail	Usually the most-replaced seal on any door	6, 8, 10 mm
Soft side / closing seal (fin or bubble)	Fixes gaps at the hinge or closing edge	6, 8, 10 mm
Magnetic pair, 90° and 180°	Frameless doors; higher price per pack	8, 10 mm
Clear “universal” seal (multi-position)	One product, many doors	6, 8, 10 mm
Glass-to-glass connector	Fixed panels and in-line doors	8, 10 mm

US listings sell mainly in inches (1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″); European listings in millimetres. Put both in the title.

Minimum order, samples and lead time

• Samples: free samples up to 1 m of any profile. Fit them on real doors of each glass thickness before you order.
• Minimum order: 500 m per model as a guide; smaller first runs are often possible.
• Custom profile: if you want your own shape, tooling costs about USD 300 to 400.
• Lead time: typically 3 to 4 weeks for standard profiles.

Specs that cut returns

Shower seal returns usually say “didn’t fit”. Put these in every listing, in the title or the first bullet:

1. Glass thickness in mm and inches.
2. Gap the seal closes (for example “closes gaps up to 6 mm”).
3. Position (bottom, side, magnetic closing edge, between panels).
4. Length, and whether it can be cut.
5. Material (clear PVC, polycarbonate) and a photo of the cut end.

Add a measuring diagram as one of the listing images. Buyers who measure before ordering are far less likely to return a seal.

Listing keywords buyers use

• shower door seal, shower door sweep, shower door bottom seal, frameless shower door seal
• shower seal strip, shower screen seal (UK), bath screen seal (UK)
• magnetic shower door seal, 90 degree / 180 degree magnetic seal
• 1/4 inch, 5/16 inch, 3/8 inch glass; 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm glass
• drip rail, water deflector, shower door gap seal

Avoid naming enclosure brands in titles unless you have confirmed fit; marketplaces remove listings that misuse trademarks.

Questions to ask any supplier

1. Do you extrude the profiles yourself?
2. Can you share UV-ageing and mould test reports for this material?
3. Does each drawing state glass thickness and gap range?
4. Will you send free samples of the exact profiles?
5. Can you pack and label to marketplace rules?

GoldRays has made shower seals in its own factory in Foshan, China, since 2001, on more than 40 production lines. Our SuperClear™ seals are SGS-tested (see testing), and samples of any profile are free up to 1 m.

Online sellers: request samples or see our wholesale terms.

Frequently asked questions

Can I sell GoldRays seals under my own brand?

Yes. GoldRays supplies seals to brands and online sellers who sell under their own name, and GoldRays’ name doesn’t need to appear on the product. Tell us your marketplace when you ask for samples.

What is the minimum order for private label?

500 m per model as a guide, with smaller first runs often possible.

Can you make a seal that isn’t in your catalogue?

Yes. Send a drawing or sample; a new profile costs about USD 300 to 400 to tool.

About the author

GoldRays technical team

The GoldRays technical team writes these guides at the GoldRays factory in Foshan, China, where clear PVC and polycarbonate shower door seals have been made since 2001. The team works with more than 40 production lines and more than 3,200 moulds for 4 to 15 mm glass, and answers trade questions about fit, materials and testing.

Ask the technical team

A magnetic shower seal is a pair of strips that pull together when the door closes. The angle is the angle between the two pieces of glass (or glass and wall) where the strips meet: 180° when the door closes in line with a fixed panel, 90° when it closes against a panel or wall at a right angle, and 135° when it closes against an angled panel, as on neo-angle and pentagonal enclosures. Pick the pair for that angle and for your glass thickness, and always replace both halves together.

The three angles at a glance

Angle	Where you find it	What the two strips look like
180° (in-line)	Door closing against a fixed panel in the same line, e.g. a straight alcove front with door and panel	Two flat-faced strips meeting edge to edge
90° (right angle)	Corner enclosures where the door closes against a side panel; doors closing onto a wall profile	One strip meets the other at right angles; often one flat strip and one “L” strip
135°	Neo-angle (diamond) and pentagonal enclosures, where the door sits between two angled panels	Both strips angled so the faces meet at 135°

Some catalogues describe the angle of the seal faces rather than the glass, so check the drawing for the glass arrangement rather than relying on the label alone.

How to measure the angle

1. Close the door to its normal closed position.
2. Look down on the closing edge from above.
3. If the door and the panel form a straight line, it is 180°. If they form a square corner, it is 90°. If the corner is wider than square but not straight, it is usually 135°.
4. For anything else (for example 120° or 150° on custom enclosures), measure with a protractor or angle finder and send the reading with a photo.

Then measure the glass thickness of both panels (they can differ) and the gap between them with the door closed.

GoldRays models with a stated angle

These are the models whose angle is stated on our magnetic seals page (October 2026). Dimensions and drawings are on that page.

Angle	Model	Glass thickness (mm)
180° and 90° (one drawing shows both arrangements)	S008A1W	6, 8, 10
90°	008N 90	Not stated on the page; ask us
180°	008N 180	Not stated on the page; ask us
135°	008C1	6, 8, 10, 12
Sliding doors (no fixed angle)	008B	6, 8, 10, 12

The other magnetic profiles on the page do not state an angle. Send a photo or drawing of your door and we will confirm which arrangement each one suits.

Why both halves must be replaced together

Magnet strength, polarity and the position of the magnet inside the profile differ between manufacturers and even between models. A new strip paired with an old one from another maker may not meet squarely, may repel, or may pull the door past its closed position. Order the pair as one item and fit both at the same time. Our magnetic seal replacement guide walks through the fitting.

Common angle mistakes

• Ordering a 90° pair for a neo-angle door. The faces meet at an angle and leave a gap down the full height. Neo-angle doors are usually 135°.
• Assuming the door and panel glass are the same thickness. Fixed panels are sometimes thicker. Check both.
• Confusing the door swing with the seal angle. A door that opens 90° does not need a 90° seal; the seal angle is measured when the door is closed.
• Reading the angle from a photo taken from the front. Only a view from above shows the angle.

Trade buyers: GoldRays makes magnetic pairs for in-line, right-angle, angled and sliding closures, for 6 to 15 mm glass, and can tool custom profiles. Request samples.

Frequently asked questions

What angle magnetic seal do I need for a corner shower?

Usually 90°: the door closes against a side panel at a right angle. If the enclosure has a diagonal front with the door between two angled panels, it is usually 135°.

Can one magnetic seal work at both 90° and 180°?

Some profiles are designed so the same pair can be fitted in either arrangement; the S008A1W drawing shows both. Check the drawing for the model you are buying.

What is a 135° magnetic shower seal used for?

Neo-angle (diamond-shaped) and pentagonal enclosures, where the door closes against a panel set at 135°.

Can I replace just one magnetic strip?

It is not recommended. Magnets from different makers rarely line up or pull with the same force, so replace both strips as a pair.

About the author

GoldRays technical team

The GoldRays technical team writes these guides at the GoldRays factory in Foshan, China, where clear PVC and polycarbonate shower door seals have been made since 2001. The team works with more than 40 production lines and more than 3,200 moulds for 4 to 15 mm glass, and answers trade questions about fit, materials and testing.

Ask the technical team

Shower door seals typically last two to five years in daily use, and good-quality UV-stabilised seals that are cleaned gently can last longer. Bottom sweeps usually wear fastest because they drag, flex and sit in water. Replace a seal when it leaks, splits, hardens or no longer meets the glass, not just because of its age.

Typical life by position

Seal life varies with the compound, the bathroom and how the seal is cleaned, so treat this as a general guide.

Position	Typical life	Why
Bottom sweep / drip seal	Shortest	Constant flexing, sits in water, catches soap and limescale
Hinge-side seal	Medium	Flexes every time the door opens
Magnetic closing seal	Medium to long	Magnets can weaken or misalign; the plastic housing can yellow
Glass-to-glass connector	Longest	Doesn’t move, but can yellow or stain

What shortens seal life

• strong bleach, chlorine or solvent cleaners
• abrasive pads and creams
• direct sunlight on the shower
• a seal that’s the wrong size, so it’s stretched or forced
• doors that drop or swing out of line, dragging the seal

Five signs a seal needs replacing

1. Water on the floor after a shower, in the same place each time.
2. Splits or tears in the fin or bubble.
3. Hard or brittle to the touch, so it no longer flexes against the glass or floor.
4. Gaps: the seal no longer touches the surface it should close against.
5. Yellowing or black mould that doesn’t clean off. Mould inside the fold can’t be reached by cleaning.

How to make a new seal last

• Clean weekly with mild soap and a soft cloth; rinse and leave the door open to dry.
• Avoid bleach and abrasive products on seals.
• Check that the door is level and the hinges are tight, so the seal isn’t dragging.
• Choose a seal with UV and mould test results. Here are GoldRays’ SGS results.

Frequently asked questions

How often should shower seals be replaced?

When they show wear or leak: typically every two to five years for bottom sweeps in daily use, and less often for side and glass-to-glass seals.

Can I replace just the bottom seal?

Yes. Bottom sweeps usually wear first. Make sure the new one meets the hinge-side seal at the corner with no gap.

Is replacing a shower seal a DIY job?

Most clip-on seals push onto the glass edge and can be trimmed to length in minutes. See how to replace a shower door seal.

About the author

GoldRays technical team

The GoldRays technical team writes these guides at the GoldRays factory in Foshan, China, where clear PVC and polycarbonate shower door seals have been made since 2001. The team works with more than 40 production lines and more than 3,200 moulds for 4 to 15 mm glass, and answers trade questions about fit, materials and testing.

Ask the technical team

A shower or bath screen that leaks at the hinge side usually has one of four problems: a worn or missing hinge-side seal, a gap between glass and wall that is wider than the seal can close, water running down the glass and escaping at the bottom corner, or failed silicone along the wall profile. Finding which one takes about five minutes with a jug of water.

Find the leak path first

Dry everything. Then, with the screen closed:

1. Pour water slowly down the glass near the hinge, starting at the top. Watch the outside.
2. If water appears straight away along the vertical edge, the hinge-side seal or the gap is the problem.
3. If it appears only at floor level in the corner, the bottom seal or the corner where the bottom seal meets the hinge side is the problem.
4. If it appears behind the wall profile or on the wall, the silicone or the wall channel is the problem.

Cause 1: the hinge-side seal is worn, missing or the wrong size

Hinged screens have a clip-on seal along the edge nearest the wall, usually a soft fin or bubble that closes the gap as the screen swings. Over time it hardens, splits or yellows, or it was never right for the gap.

Fix: measure the glass thickness (commonly 4, 5, 6 or 8 mm on bath screens) and the gap between glass and wall at the top, middle and bottom. Fit a hinge-side seal made for that glass thickness that closes the largest gap. A bubble (bulb) profile usually copes better with an uneven gap than a single fin.

Cause 2: the gap is wider than any seal can close

If the wall isn’t plumb, the gap can be 3 mm at the top and 12 mm at the bottom. No single fin seal covers that.

Fix: use a seal with a longer fin or a larger bubble, sized to the widest part of the gap. If the gap is badly tapered, the hinge or wall profile may need adjusting so the glass hangs parallel to the wall. Check the hinge screws: a hinge that has dropped opens the gap at the bottom.

Cause 3: water escapes at the bottom corner

Water running down the inside of the glass collects at the bottom corner on the hinge side. If the bottom seal stops short of the hinge edge, or its drip fin faces the wrong way, it escapes there.

Fix: fit a bottom seal or deflector with the fin facing into the bath or shower, run it right to the hinge edge, and make sure it meets the hinge-side seal with no gap. On curved bath screens, use a seal made for curved glass so it doesn’t lift at the ends.

Cause 4: failed silicone along the wall profile

Fixed screens and the wall profile of hinged screens rely on silicone between the profile and the tiles. Cracked, mouldy or peeling silicone lets water run behind the profile.

Fix: cut out the old silicone, clean and dry the joint fully, and reseal with a sanitary silicone, on the outside of the profile only, so any water inside can drain back into the bath.

Prevention

• Keep seals clean with mild soap and a soft cloth; strong bleach cleaners harden and cloud them.
• Replace hinge and bottom seals together when they show wear, so they still meet at the corner.
• Point the shower head away from the hinge edge.

Trade buyers: GoldRays supplies hinge-side, bottom and curved-screen seals for 4 to 15 mm glass to distributors and enclosure brands. Request samples.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my bath screen leak at the hinge side but not at the end?

The hinge side has a gap that changes as the screen swings and a corner where the bottom and side seals meet, so it is the weakest point. A worn hinge-side seal or a short bottom seal is the usual cause.

Can I just add more silicone?

Silicone seals fixed joints, not the moving gap at a hinged edge. Silicone across a moving joint will tear, and silicone on the inside of a profile can trap water.

How do I know what size seal to buy?

Measure the glass thickness and the gap at its widest point, and note whether the glass is flat or curved. See our size chart.

About the author

GoldRays technical team

The GoldRays technical team writes these guides at the GoldRays factory in Foshan, China, where clear PVC and polycarbonate shower door seals have been made since 2001. The team works with more than 40 production lines and more than 3,200 moulds for 4 to 15 mm glass, and answers trade questions about fit, materials and testing.

Ask the technical team